Iceland – a country of elves and magic

My home for 5 nights was the Hotel Skuggi, Reykjavik; typically Scandinavian in theme (think Ikea style furniture), but with a quirky personal touch. Quotes by Ragnar Axelsson’s book “From behind the mountains” adorned every bedroom wall, and each room had its own copy for those moments when feet needed a rest.  As I absorbed the life of an Icelandic farmer in all its brutal beauty, accompanied by the most vivid photographs, I formed a deep respect for the islanders and their ability to co-exist with nature’s dictatorship.

During the break I took 2 separate day excursions run by Reykjavik Excursions (they also provided the necessary transport from the airport into Reykjavik – a well oiled-machine making life easy for the tourist).  Although they may seem expensive, these tours are incredible value and well worth using.  The guides on both days were fun and informative, and took great care of their tourists (we had a very poorly lady on one – as she found walking difficult, our guide found a wheelchair at one of our stops and ensured she could take part and experience as much as possible – empathy and humanity in action!).

The first trip was the Golden Circle and Friðheimar tour.  On the journey, the avid (and captive!) audience were told the story of the elf stones which appear at random along Iceland’s roads – if one is found when a road is being laid, the road is re-routed to avoid disturbing the elves and divert bad luck – elves get blamed for a lot in Iceland!  Although the religion is predominantly Lutheran, there are still a number of pagan groups and beliefs around.  Despite the balmy promise of spring, 60mph winds buffeted us as we travelled, causing some concern among the more anxious travellers.  These speeds were described as normal, but as stronger winds frequently occur there are frequent wind speed signs along the roads, alongside the debris of inexperienced drivers (usually tourists!) who choose to ignore the warnings – not a good idea in Iceland!

• 

Friðheimar was unexpected – succulent red fruits proliferate huge greenhouses warmed by geothermic energy in a barren landscape!  Pollination is cleverly done by bees imported from Holland.  They also make their own tomato beer – an acquired and interesting taste!  

Eventually we arrived at Þingvellir National Park (pronounced Thingvellir, but I love the beauty and mystery of the Norse Runic alphabet), where you can cross from one continent to another along the mid-Atlantic rift (the meeting of the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates cause daily earthquakes here – most are mild, so don’t panic!). The park was the home of Iceland’s first parliament and where their nation began.  As with everywhere in Iceland, pictures and words cannot truly bring the awesome nature of the landscape to life – stunning is an incredibly inadequate description.

The South Shore Adventure took us to Vik with its eerie volcanic black sands.  On top of the hill as you enter the village stands a small church ready to warn of volcanic eruption and serve as an evacuation point – I did have to wonder whether all the villagers would fit inside!

The rainbow waterfall of Seljalandsfoss (below) – how can I explain the wonder of catching rainbows in your eyes, heart and on film, a waterfall you can walk behind and enter the magic realm of mystery?  

At Sólheimajökull Glacier (above) you can hear the creak of the retreating glacier as it forms a lake. Sadly, wonder may be lost to future generations sooner than we think as the climate warms.

• 

In between the day trips, we explored the streets of Reykjavik and inhaled its history.  There’s a surprising amount to see and lack of time meant I missed enough to want to go back.  Eating out can be expensive, and drinking alcohol is a luxury (like most Scandinavian countries, alcohol has historically been a concern, with inhabitants becoming dependent on the solace and warmth it brings to long winter nights).  If you’re unsure what you want to eat, a variety of food outlets can be found at the Hlemurr Mathöll Food Hall, next to the bus station.  In Reykjavik, along the main Laugevegar Street, I found and fell in love with an affordable eatery called Icelandic Street Food – an ‘all you can eat’ providing the ubiquitous traditional kjötsúpa (lamb soup) served in the largest bread roll I have ever seen as a bowl – very tasty and definitely a recipe I will be trying at home.

• 

An unexpected find in Reykjavik with a name recalling flavours of home was the Hereford Steak House – alongside solid succulent steaks their speciality is puffin – as the saying goes ‘when in Rome’!  The delicacy was surprisingly acceptable with the texture of steak, and the flavour of fish (but not overpoweringly so).  This is a pricey restaurant, so a one-off treat on this trip, but worth the gastronomic experience.

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

On the way to the old harbour is the ‘Horft Til Hafs’ statue (‘Facing the Sea’), reminding Icelanders that fishermen were responsible for Reykjavik’s prosperity.  The Maritime Museum nearby celebrates this history, and is well worth a visit.

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

Sun Voyager – Soul Seeker
Soulless, lost in the crashing of the seas.
Echoes, finding their bearings amongst the lees;
Rattling, not of lines ‘gainst metallic masts
But of skeletal breaths.
Screeching of the winds’ talons reaching icy fingers as they roll off the mountained glaciers,
Grass burnt in the icy hurt of Viking invasion.
Soulless, finding reflection in the monochrome rainbow of steel and seas
(c) Leena Batchelor 2019

Also worth visiting is the Lutheran Cathedral Hallgrimskirja.  As you enter along the avenue you come across the imposing statue of Leiff Ericsson, Icelandic explorer and founder of Vinland, North America (before Columbus!) – this son of Iceland is celebrated with his own day on October 9th, and the Harpa Opera House which is a showcase marvel of how engineering can cross the bridge into beauty.

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

Would I revisit? Absolutely! Probably in the summer to take in all the other sights I missed, and maybe hire a camper van to drive the ring road (a journey to take over several days).  As much as I’d love to see the Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis), I’m like to see these from a cruise ship –maybe Norway or the Outer Hebrides?